![]() If a leakdown test is done and head gaskets check out okay, you could replace both of the most likely other culprits (oil cooler for $400 and crankcase breather for $200) and still end up spending way less money than if you wait for things to get worse in the hope of only replacing the one part that's defective. I was just trying to emphasize that in this situation, I think that "watching and waiting" for more defined symptoms is not a good route to follow (pun intended). ![]() ![]() As someone that's been around the forum a little while (seven whole months longer than you ), I kinda have an idea that my car isn't a Chevy and that fixing coolant migrating to the oil is an expensive fix even before that coolant causes anything else to break.Because it's the only part I disagreed with! I'm not sure why you chose to take a small piece of what I wrote, completely out of context, and address it as if it's the entire course of action I recommended? I only mentioned that as an option because it's what the OP appears to be considering ( Post 19.). As someone that's been around the forum a little while (seven whole months longer than you ), I kinda have an idea that my car isn't a Chevy and that fixing coolant migrating to the oil is an expensive fix even before that coolant causes anything else to break. So it'll be the first thing that goes through the engine when you start it.I'm not sure why you chose to take a small piece of what I wrote, completely out of context, and address it as if it's the entire course of action I recommended? I only mentioned that as an option because it's what the OP appears to be considering ( Post 19.). So any that doesn't mix with the oil will sit on the bottom of the oil pan. * Keep in mind coolant is heavier than oil. If it were my car, it would sit in the driveway or someone's shop until the root problem is identified and fixed. Sadly this isn't a Chevy where if you trash the motor you can grab another one for 500 bucks from a junkyard and toss it in there. Best case is change the oil every week or two and don't drive it much, and you spend a fortune on oil and don't get to enjoy the car properly. Allow too much coolant to enter the oil, engine suffers lubrication failure and is even more badly damaged*. ![]() Let the coolant get too low, engine overheats and is badly (=expensively) damaged. There are so many ways this can end badly. I have to respectfully disagree with you on this bit. It's a hell of a job, requiring R&R'ing the suprercharger and at least one lower intake manifold which probably means you'll need to replace injector seals. If all else fails, try replacing the crankcase breather. Regardless, of course carefully refill the coolant when done.ģ. Or just replace the thing, but OE is 400 dollars and I'm not sure I'd trust an aftermarket one. Another thing that could work is to see if you could bypass the coolant lines going to the cooler, then drive the car gently for a while and see if you see oil coming out the coolant connections on the cooler. Open the shutoff to let a little air in, then close the shutoff and see if the cooler holds pressure. Put the pressure gauge on the cooler side of the shutoff valve. Plug one of the coolant connections on the cooler, and find a way to connect a pressure gauge, shutoff valve, and source of low-pressure compressed air (10-15 PSI, not higher!) to the other coolant connection. Drain the coolant and disconnect the coolant hoses going to the cooler. Or maybe just do it anyway, it's the easiest test.Ģ. If the engine runs any less than perfectly, do a leakdown test to rule out head gasket(s) or related items. I guess if I were in your situation, this is what I'd do:ġ.
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